23 July 2023 Return to Anacortes

So I left you as we entered Nanimo… We made our entrance on the south side of Newcastle Island rather than thru the maze of marinas to the north. As we rounded the point we could see a large field of boats moored ahead in Mark Bay. We proceeded thru them searching for an empty mooring float. The first one we tried (marked private) we couldn’t lift to get our line thru the eye. Farther on we encountered several unoccupied floats, chose one and got a line thru it. Safely moored we had a beer. For dinner that evening we decided to go to the Dinghy Dock Pub. We launched the dink, checked out a few boats and tied up at the pub. We had a couple of appetizers, then dinner amid a bunch of laughs. As we motored back we had to check some more boats until we finally arrived at Tango.

     Next morning we were off south. First thing we had to negotiate Dodd Narrows.  We left a bit early and had the current with us. Another sailboat on our right was just ahead and we let him go first. Two powerboats passed us as we approached to narrows. Suddenly we were in the current and quickly moved thru to find a tug with a load of logs on the other side just starting to make way anticipating the change in direction. Then we were clear to make way down the channel to the south. Around four that afternoon we turned the corner of North Pender and headed for Port Browning. Port Browning was a real find: according to JT they had installed new main docks, renumbered the slips and got rid of a batch of derelict boats. The docks were very nice. JT and Jon had a swim in the pool there. I enquired about dinner: no reservations. The boys got dried off and we waited to eat in the bar. When it was our turn we took a table on the deck. The food was good and we went back to the  boat satisfied. Sleep came easy on the last night out.

      Next morning we set off about 8:30 bound for the San Juans. By eleven o’clock we were in them, home waters once again. We passed south of Orcas, north of Shaw and finally passed thru Thatcher Pass between Blakey and Decatur. Across Rosario Strait I could see home. An hour later we were tied up in slip D-37–home at last. I took a cab home to take a shower and get my car. JT and Jon showered in Cap Sante then we all reassembled at Anthony’s for dinner. After dinner the boys went back to the boat while I went home to sleep in my own bed. So here this story ends. I’ll tell you some more when I see you.
   Bye for now.
               Skip Peters

 

18 July 2023 Straits of Georgia & Nanimo 

Redondo Bay was kind to us overnight but no sightings of the Northern Lights. Redondo Bay is not recommended as an anchorage but we found a spot off an old log dump in ninety feet. It was calm overnight which helped. The fact that we had put out 450 feet chain also helped.

     In the morning we motored down to Roscoe Bay. There we had showers and I did a load of laundry for the three of us. Then lunch in the restaurant upstairs over looking the marina. The three of us ate two pizzas and a plate of fresh tuna sushi. With the laundry aboard we departed for Tenedos Bay. Tenedos was only  seven miles. We anchored in thirty-five feet and tied a line around a tree ashore. JT made us a nice dinner then he and Jon had a swim. (It was hot!) After I laid down the breeze died and we had a pleasant sleep.

      The next morning after breakfast JT and Jon set off for the lake above us. I was immersed in an Andrew Greeley novel. The boys got back at 4:30 and reported that they had had a good time. Jon made us a nice beef stew for supper. Afterward we decided to take a hike up to a viewpoint that Jon maintained he could see from our anchorage. It took a ten-minute dinghy ride to get there. A boater at the foot of the trail warned us that it would take forty-five minutes each way but we had been told twenty-five. The way was up, up, up. At times our way was aided by ropes that prior climbers had provided. After eighteen minutes we reached the top with the Canadian flag and even a small varnished bench. The view of the Tenedos anchorages was amazing. I could count some thirty yachts beneath us including Tango. The descent took another twenty minutes so we still had daylight. Back to Tango we went around the island we had looked over from the view point. We arrived just in time for me to retire but both of my companions stayed up and went swimming in the bay.

     So that’s it. Next morning Jon and I were up at six-thirty. We wound in the stern line, picked up the anchor and set off southbound for Pender Harbor. We arrived at 4:30 with a place on the visitors dock. Jon made dinner then I retired.

     Overnight there was a forecast of rain but in the morning we had had only a few drops. JT and I went shopping when the IGA opened (sticky buns). Then we were off. I had the first watch as the wind came and went. Jon came on at eleven in the Strait of Georgia. With fifteen knots from the west he decided we should sail. I took a nap. He sailed for three hours with wind from various directions averaging about four knots per hour. JT took over at two and sailed for about an hour before we entered the Nanimo traffic lanes.

     Tomorrow and Wednesday then we will be home.

13 July 2023 Lagoon Cove → Redonda Bay, BC 

No place on their dock, so we anchored out only about a hundred yards from there. The draw was showers on the dock. We all had one. Awe, clean! The other draw was a potluck supper on their upper fixed dock. JT decided to make a salmon dip with some  crackers. He is an excellent cook and this turned out great. We went up at 4:30, first ones there but soon there were about twenty-five. Our hosts, the owners of place made a brief speech and placed a huge bowl of prawns in line. We were the only ones who had not been there before so we got to go thru first. Excellent food, I made three trips. We went back to our boat full and slept sound.

      Tuesday we were up at 4:30 to catch the tide. We had to thread thru the Blow Hole to leave Lagoon Cove. Jon got us thru just fine then JT took over as we made our way down Chatham Channel. We passed a small tug pulling a barge as we entered the channel but then were passed by him because I had made an error navigating the prior evening. I plotted us west around some island—the tug knew the way thru a shortcut. Oh well. Then down Havannah Channel into Johnstone Strait.  We were leaving the Broughtons and headed for Blind Channel Resort. This resort is just up Mayne Passage from Johnstone. I called them on the radio as we left the straits—the man took a few moments but finally said that they had a spot for us. We tied to the dock precariously in front of a Tartan 38. The attraction here was a laundry. Clean clothes are such a pleasure. We made reservations for dinner in the restaurant. At 6:30 we were seated. The prices were a bit expensive but the food was excellent. Back on the boat we plotted the next day to the Octopus Islands.

     The Octopus Islands are on Quadra Island up the Okisollo Channel. To make the rapids on Okisollo we left Blind Bay at 9:30. We went thru them at high slack and got to the islands at about one pm. Amazing number of boats here—about sixty or so. We turned right off the narrow entrance channel to a small bay then took a look out the other entrance to the main bay. We decided that the small bay would be just fine and turned around. We anchored in 25 feet and Jon took our stern line ashore. He rigged thru a loop of cable that went around a small tree but he needed help getting it back aboard. He came back and picked up JT and they soon had us tied to shore. JT and Jon decided to go for a hike while I stayed aboard to work on my book. They were gone about three and a half hours. When they returned JT made us Ramen noodles with peas and corn for dinner. Sounds simple but it was delicious.

     Thursday was a lazy day. The tides were such that we had to go thru Hole in the Wall at 2:30 odd. We had picked out a harbor on the west end of West Redonda Island for Jon to have a chance to see the Northern Lights. We hit the Hole in the Wall just as four boats emerged. We were swirled around a bit but we got through just fine. Redondo Bay is in the right place to see the northern sky but not recommended as an anchorage. We finally picked a spot in 80 feet and put out 450 feet of chain. So far so good but we’ll see. More later.

 

11 July 2023 Ocean Falls & Fury Cove, BC

So there we were in Ocean Falls. Ocean Falls is the site of a dam and a city that used to be. The dam is still there and generates power for Shearwater and new Bella Bella. It also makes power for the city there including a large facility that houses lots of computers for Bitcoin(!) City it used to be. Now there are about forty residents. But there is an abandoned six story hotel. Turns out there were 4,000 to 5,000 residents here until about 1980 then it was abandoned. We understand that it has recently been revived. We walked up the road in the wind and encountered an ice cream shop. We had to stop and JT and I had big cones. Then all three of us hiked to the lake above the dam. JT and Jon had a swim. On the way down JT and I marveled at the vacant lots and buildings. Back at the boat we heard of a tour the next morning of the museum in the village. Dinner then bed.

     The next morning (Thursday) we got dressed and walked to the museum. It is on the second floor of an old warehouse, the first floor houses a shop, storage for small boats and some road maintenance equipment. The museum’s owner(?) invited us up. There we found the darnedest collection of 60s, 70s and 80s stuff imaginable and in no particular order. Old letters, old teacups, old tools, old etc, etc. We managed to wander amongst the stuff for an hour then back to Tango. We cast off and headed down the channel. Our destination was Pruth Bay, about six hours away on the coast. Fitz Hugh Channel to Hakai Passage to Kwakshua Channel. At the west end of Kwakshua is the Hakai Institute, a private research institute that is conducting studies of coastal waters. They allow access to the ocean but provide no services. Since it was late when we anchored, we made dinner and retired.

     Friday we put ashore at the Hakai dock and walked a mile to the beach. It was beautiful with fine white sand and a gentle surf. I found a comfortable spot to read my book—JT and Jon explored west beach (where I stayed) and hiked over to north beach. At three o’clock I when back to the dinghy and read until the boys showed up at five. Back aboard they recounted their travels. Dinner then lights out.

     The next day JT and Jon went off to see the beaches on the south side. I stayed aboard to finish my book. They returned at 2:30 to show pictures of the seven beaches. At four we were underway bound for an anchorage just north of Cape Caution. We arrived in Fury Cove just after 6:30. We had some supper (Jon made it) and checked the weather for the next day. As the weather was favorable we went to bed planning a seven am departure.

     The next morning we were underway early. It was cloudy when we left but the wind was light. We made good time and passed about two miles west of Cape Caution at eleven. The day gradually cleared and the last five miles or so the wind kicked up to twenty knots from astern. We eased into Blunden Harbor at three o’clock and anchored with eight other boats. The wind continued to blow but died during the night. Jon fixed hamburgers with French fries for supper and we had cottage cheese with peaches for desert. JT planned our route for Monday—he called for a 5:00 am departure. Nite all.

     Monday morning we were off at daylight. Jon took the first watch and I had the second. We had good following current until just as my watch was ending. JT has had about a knot against us for his entire two hours. Oh well. We are going Lagoon Cove Marina come hell or bad current. Stay tuned.

 

10 July 2023 Impressions from JT

Some good days cruising.

Writing south of the Llama Passage on Fitz Hugh Sound BC.  Been here before - our only downhill run in the ‘18 R2AK.  Just visited Ocean Falls

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Cousins Inlet houses an abandoned town with a really varied history.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_Falls

It was awesome poking around. Ghosts live here.  The only current business is a hotel (sited in the old bank building) with an attached ice cream stand.  (Their double caramel cone is very good.)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sqn-QmoXK4M

This former 4,500 person pulp mill site (second largest in Canada) now is home to 40 residents and……a bitcoin mining operation (located in a section of the old pulp plant).  There is an abundance of cheap, off the grid hydro power.  It’s a wild evolution.

 

Tango has been in deep - slowly motor-sailing south, stopping (and repairing/patching) to suit our fancy (and mechanical & parts capacities).  Been watching out for these guys.And these.  Deadheads (vertical logs) are the stuff of nightmares.

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Have explored glacial bays & fiords, bear sanctuaries, deserted anchorages, small towns and First Nation villages.  Petersburg, Wrangle, Meyers Chuck, Hartley Bay and Shearwater are all recommended. 

P-berg.  Trident fish processing plant is on the right.  It's been cool weather -  no smell.......yet.

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Really enjoying fresh produce in the gruel when available.

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Tracy Arm (black dots are seals)

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Anan Bay: Pretty impressive Forest Service bear stand.  (Thus far have seen 7 brownies). 

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AK is still the Wild West.  Check your firearm at the door.

Have a couple more weeks prior to meeting Sue Sue in Anacortes. We plan on passing through the Broughton Group, Desolation Sound and visiting a few pubs off the Straight of Georgia.  Unfortunately - it’s getting pretty crowded the further south we range. (After a few months, Tango now has an attitude 😎.)
 

5 July 2023 Ketchikan & Prince Rupert

 Wednesday JT and I were up a bit after four am. We heard on the radio the prior evening about a storm coming in. We got up and underway at 4:30. As we turned left to get out of Meyers Chuck the waves were apparent. I turned south toward Ketchikan and was met by waves and wind that topped 40 knots. On we plowed. All three of us had gusts over forty-five during our two hour shifts. When I started my second stint about 11:00 o’clock we were starting to be sheltered. As my watch continued the wind settled down to twenty- five. We finally pulled into Thomas Basin about 2:00 pm a bit bedraggled. Dinner was in a Ketchikan hot spot. I was in bed by nine only to be awakened later by JT putting a young lady to sleep in the pilot house.


      When I got up on Thursday to make coffee there she was in her sleeping bag. She woke up shortly thereafter and explained that she was kayaking to Skagway. She packed her stuff, had a cup of coffee and left. The boys crawled out about 9:30 and JT fixed us a nice breakfast. We gathered up our dirty clothes and took them to the Ketchikan Yacht Club, a small barge just one dock over. There was just one machine but it was free and worked well. There was the young lady as well. Her name was Joan and her kayak was on the dock there. After laundry we strolled over to the one distillery in Ketchikan. They were fixing to have a private party for the theater next door. Didn’t keep us from trying their fare as we chatted with the actors. We adjourned to a nearby bar for another drink and then hiked back to the boat to make supper. Quite a production, dinner. We grilled chicken and salmon on the grill outside. Yum! Clean up then to bed. Big day tomorrow.

      We left at five the next morning to cross Dixon Entrance to Prince Rupert in Canada. The crew decided that I should take the third watch so I got to sleep in. The wind was down so we made good time but we lost an hour due to the time change. We tied up at the Prince Rupert Yacht Club docks at 9:00 pm. No place to pay and no one around. I got us cleared into Canada by phone, then to sleep.

     Saturday morning the weather was a bit brighter. We left Prince Rupert at six o’clock headed south along Grenville Channel. The wind was light but behind us. I got the third watch for a second day. JT has become the cruise director and he decided that we should make it to Hartley Bay. Hartley is a Native American community. We arrived at about six and were able to squeeze onto a visitors dock in their very small harbor. I checked out a local fisherman who had about ten shiny salmon while JT took a walk thru the village. No automobiles, people got around on little four-wheelers. We had a nice dinner prepared by Jon and retired.

     The next morning was Sunday. We left at six bound for Fiordland, a national park. The weather had turned for us—light wind from the north. We had a long day but no difficulties. At 5:30 we swing into the north arm of the park. There we spotted a bear but he hightailed it out of sight before we could a picture. In the south arm of the park we found a quiet spot on the right side of the arm and set the hook. Jon fixed dinner and we enjoyed our view. I turned in at 9:30 and soon it was still.

     Overnight we had a little excitement: turned out as the tide went out, the stream we were anchored near became a little more active. It drains a large inland sea and as the tide went out the stream became more active. Jon, sleeping in the bow, was awake much of the night. Fortunately our anchor held so we didn’t move. JT took the first watch and I took the second—we let Jon get a few more hours. The tide was going out and we rode it for several hours. Jon took us thru a narrow cut against the tide until we turned up the channel for Shearwater. JT had the helm as we were passed by tug with a big barge full of containers. We pulled into Shearwater at two o’clock. Enough time to get showered and do laundry. That evening we had a pot luck with Rhapsody, a boat we had encountered several times as we came down. Turns out a whole bunch of boats (boaters) joined in. Quite a party. Night all.

     Tuesday we decided to stay another day. I had been having chest pains for a couple of weeks. I finally told JT, our designated first aid person. He gently but firmly said we should visit the hospital in New Bella Bella, about a ten minute ride on the fast shuttle boat. When we arrived they took me in to emergency and did an EKG. That morning I had worried about my health and decided it could be dehydration. I drank four big glasses of water. I talked to the doctor in the hospital and he listened very carefully. He wanted to do more tests. I had a chest X-ray, two blood tests, another EKG at four pm. The doctor finally came and told me that I was fine, just dehydrated. I had another drink of water and we rode the shuttle back. Dinner that night was in the restaurant at the head of the dock. I had Spegetti and Meatballs and three glasses of water. I tried to write this but sleep was more pressing.

     Wednesday we were underway at ten to get fuel. Then we pulled out and headed East bound for Ocean Falls. Well East for ten miles or so then north. The first ten were mine an threaded thru a pretty narrow channel. When we came out it was JT’s watch. We had a twenty knot wind from the south so he and Jon hoisted the main and Jib. We had not sailed for two weeks and it felt good. We arrived in Ocean Falls about Three o’clock. I’ll tell you rest of the story next time.

 

2 July 2023 Shearwater, Canada

The crew celebrated Captain Skip's 80th birthday by doing some ziplining and bear spotting at Fiordland Conservancy.

 

27 June 2023 Wrangell Narrows → Meyers Chuck

After a relaxing afternoon, we cast off our lines and headed south thru Wrangell Narrows. The way thru is skinny but beats heck out of Dry Straight on the other side of the island. After two and a half hours of excitement we found a safe mooring in a small bay at the southern end with two other boats. We had a sound sleep.

The next morning (Sunday, the 25th) we watched the other two boats pull out. We stayed put until 12:30 to catch the tide to Wrangell. The passage was uneventful and we pulled in at about 4:30. We decided to get dinner in town and so we took a walk. Sundays are pretty quiet in Wrangell, but eventually we came across a small ice cream store with a kitchen. Turns out it was Thai. The food was excellent and we all had ice cream for dessert.

Monday dawned rainy, light rain really. We had discovered a leak under the forward head. We examined the hose clamps—too big! I hiked to town to replace them. Checked three stores, but none had the size I wanted. The Ace Hardware had the next size up so I bought them. We replaced the three on the fitting. Still leaked. Then I tried a ratchet instead of the screwdriver we had been using. The leak went down to a few drops a minute. We cleaned the mess and decided to leave. We went around Wrangell Island clockwise bound for Anan Bay.  We tied up at the float in Anan Bay with some assistance from a small power boat who moved to the end of the float. We retired for the evening.

Tuesday we woke to sunny skies, a relief from the rain of yesterday. We launched the dinghy and took off for the trail head. We checked out the little bay at the head of the canyon and went back to the trail head. The hike to the lookout was routine except for the large beer sign that we saw on the way. The lookout had been rebuilt since 2010 and was very nice. We stayed about two hours but saw no bears, we were too early by about ten days.  Back aboard we headed for Meyers Chuck. Four hours later we pulled in and now tied to their dock. One beer and evening will be here. Supposed to rain tomorrow.

 

24 June 2023 Portage Bay → Wrangell Narrows

Last Tuesday after supper JT and Yon decided to have one more look for bears.   They called the ranger and set off in the dink.  I (Skip) did the dishes and went to bed. The next day they reported seeing one more bear, likely a big male.  So we are all tied up at six bear sighting each.

     The next morning we got underway about 8:00 per the tide headed for Petersburg.  The tide changed as we emerged from Seymour  Canal. The wind was light as we made our way down Stephens Passage and into Frederick Sound. Our original destination was Farragut Bay but after studying it we decided to head for Portage Bay on the south side. We got to Portage about six o’clock and set the hook. After another excellent dinner by JT, we went down for a pleasant night. Calm water, good sleep.

     Thursday we set off for Petersburg. The morning was partly cloudy as I headed out the entrance. Fortunately Yon was up and paying attention because I was suddenly in twelve feet. He slowed us down as I steered for open water. Whew! Didn’t need that. I begin to see more traffic as we approached Petersburg. Yon took over after two hours. We called the harbormaster and he put us in “48” on the north jetty of the northern marina. The afternoon was consumed getting showers and doing laundry. In the evening we went looking for food. We passed up a Mexican place (no customers) to settle on a little place that had a ton. We got our orders after a bit of a wait and found the food delicious. I had a barbecued pork sandwich, but Yon had Pad Thai. After we had eaten, a little dark-skinned lady came over and sat with us. Turns out she owns the place. We heard her life story. She is originally from Thailand, spent fifteen years on a fishing boat and when fishing was off settled in Petersburg. She opened the restaurant about three years ago and it clearly is a success. Afterward I came back to the boat while JT and Jon looked for a drink. Soon asleep.

     Friday as usual I was up first about seven. I made coffee, read the news and did a Sudoku. Then I had another cup, reread the news and did more Sudoku. Etc … I finally left the boat and walked into town. I went thru the hardware store and got some breakfast across the street. Back to a very quiet boat. Around noon JT got up. He confessed to getting very drunk the night before. Jon finally emerged at one o’clock looking just a bit hungover. We finally adjourned to the Salty Pantry for lunch. We walked to the grocery store in the afternoon to get some fresh vegetables. Last evening JT made dinner for us as usual but I did the cooking on the barbie outside. Cheese burgers with bacon, green vegetables, mashed potatoes and corn. We discussed the next day’s passage and decided to leave about 5:15 to catch the slack high water in the middle of the Wrangell Narrows. In bed at 9:30.

Saturday dawned with a brief shower. JT decided to do some laundry and took two pieces for me. I had to run the gen set to charge our batteries this morning—turns out that in spite of saying 30 amp our power goes out at 15. Yon and I went back to the Salty Pantry for breakfast/lunch.  That’s all for now.

 

18 June 2023 Tracy Arm and Sawyer Glacier

Friday it poured and we stayed put on the pier at Taku Harbor. Night passed with lots of rain but settled by morning.

      The next morning was mostly cloudy but promising.  We left at seven, headed south for Tracy Arm.  Tracy Arm is some forty miles long (think 7 hours. By 9:30 we were at the entrance. We noticed several ice bergs floating about as we turned the corner.  The way up the Arm is notable because of the cliffs of stone on both sides.  Here we are in 600 plus feet of water with 4,000 feet of bare rock on both sides.  We continued to see ice bergs that foretold of what was to come.  Two other sailboats were just behind us and as we approached the South Sawyer Glacier several power boats including a charter boat passed us.  As the ice flows closed in we finally saw the glacier. Awesome! As we monuvered around the ice, we noticed a seal with a new pup on a berg.  Then we noticed several.  Then we counted at least a hundred from our limited perspective. This one of their favorite places to give birth. Reluctantly we turned the boat around amid the ice bergs and worked our way back. The day had turned fair so we decided go north to see the Sawyer Glacier.  Another trek up the canyon with walls of rock and waterfalls on both sides. But far fewer ice bergs.  Finally it came into view. We estimated 500 vertical feet and several thousand feet wide at the face. Reluctantly we turned around and headed for the the only anchorage clear back at the mouth of Tracy Arm. The two other sailboats that had viewed South Sawyer followed us to see Sawyer and now followed us out.  At six o’clock we put the anchor down in 35 feet, had a little supper and retired.

     Sunday we decided to check out Windham Bay, the site of a salmon cannery a hundred year ago. We left the anchorage at the mouth of Tracy Arm with the same two boats we had seen the glaciers. They went north as we headed toward Windham. The bay at Windham is marked by a narrow, shallow constriction about half way up.  Jan went slow and no problem. At the head of the bay we could see no sign of the old cannery but there were a few buildings that suggested someone had designs on a development or at least a homestead. No one was home. Now we needed a place to park. The rivers make a huge delta on the SE side. We tried twice to anchor by the buildings but the anchor wouldn’t hold.  We tried another place at the west side and no luck. Finally we tried again at the west edge in 35 feet.  This time it seemed to hold but then the anchor windless would not work.  Jon disassembled the switch and found the problem. He also dropped a little spring in the anchor chain locker. The only way to find it was to put out all the chain. We did: 500(?) feet of it.  In the bottom of the locker, he found the spring. The reassembled switch worked just fine. We figured that five hundred feet would hold us and after a careful watch we retired.

     Monday morning begin with a bang.  At about four o’clock we were awakened by a loud noise like the anchor chain had rubbed on the hull.  We could find nothing and returned to bed. I lay awake for the better part of an hour then got up. I started the engine and went forward to haul the anchor. I pressed the button but it only hummed. I called Jon and JT and begin laying out a line. JT tied it to the anchor chain as I got ready to haul it with a cockpit winch. About then JT and Jon realized that I was pressing the down button instead of the up. After enduring a reasonable amount of ribbing they retrieved our anchor and went back to bed.  Suitably chagrined, I motored out of Windham Bay.  Our destination was Pack Creek where tomorrow we had reservations to see the bears.  Admiralty Island is famous for the brown bears that reside there.  As I steered across Stephens Passage the wind begin to pick up from the north.  Jon came up to help me set the foresail.  I sailed with it for about twenty minutes as the wind rose steadily. When it reached thirty-five it was too much. Jon and I rolled it up and I motored on.  By 7:00 we were approaching the end of the Glass Peninsula and the wind was diminishing.  As Jon took the boat around the point and headed north I took a long nap.  I got up with JT on the helm and the wind flat calm.  We found the anchorage at Pack gainCreek and set the hook.  We enquired about going in that afternoon but were advised that mornings are best. So we stayed.  After JT prepared supper of left-overs he decided to use the on deck shower.  He was surprised by a female voice. After he recovered his shorts and his dignity, he had a nice chat with Julie, one of Park officials.  Jon and I got our showers and then sleep.

     This morning dawned clear again. JT packed us all a nice lunch, we lowered the dink and set off at the prescribed nine o’clock. We had a briefing by the senior ranger then walked about half a mile to a view point along the peak river. There we watched a sow and her two half grown cubs thru a telescope. They were at the edge of the water about half a mile from us. We watched them and several bald eagles and BS’d for several hours. We eventually decided to hike the trail to an observatory up the river. The landscape was lovely as we walked the mile plus to get there. The observatory was positioned just above the river and was about twenty feet tall. No bears. No salmon either, too early by a couple of weeks. We enjoyed the view of the river and the surrounding forest. I led the way back and we dinghied back to the boat. We all took naps and now are thinking of dinner.

18 June (Father's Day) At the end of Windham Bay  (a  7 km glacial estuary of Stephens Passage) 
 
Beautiful shorts and t shirt day.  (Plan B is working out.)  Tore the drifter slightly on a spreader retreiving this am while gusting 35.  (Bummer = my favorite sail.) Anchorage was our toughest all trip - guessing a fluted granite bottom (goes from 150 feet  in depth to 15' of mud in 30 yards.)   During three attempts to set, the 40 yo foot control allowing rode deployment exploded.  We fixed, but the critical spring ended in the locker.   Tide fluctuation is about 18'.  Duh......thus laid down all of Tangos 500' of chain (and are now not going anywhere.). Jan did some dumpster diving and found the spring - hero for the day (also his eve to cook).  Life is good.
 
Yesterday was just exceptional - culled a few pics.  (This iPad thing is a PIA).
S. Sawyer Glacier.  Interesting navigation w/seal crossings.
 
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A tease.  121' under Tango @ 15' off the wall.
 
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4,000' granite fiords with all sorts of water.  Only potential anchorage in the 25 km arm - I was vetoed. 
 
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N. Sawyer Glacier.  Receding but now has a Class 3 rapid outflow coming from underneath it.
 
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Ran outta water going up there.  WTF: time to go back!  Around Day 45 here - simple living.  No bugs (fingers crossed) yet.
 
Happy Fathers Day.

 

16 June 2023 Exploring Glacier Bay National Park

So…another AK hello (from JT).  Picked up boat parts in Hoonah & Juneau and are now holed up off the Stephens Passage in Taku Harbor (south of Juneau).  Saw some weather from via a Gale in the Gulf of AK and tucked in here last night.  A really interesting history.  https://alaskamagazine.com/authentic-alaska/a-tiger-olson-story-taku-harbors-legendary-man-and-myth/

It’s big country.  We have/are sailing through and past legendary rivers and mountains:  Alsek, Tatsheshini and Susitna.  Mts: Eliza, Washburn, Fairweather, Logan and Devils Thumb.  Plan on riding the tides and exploring the Tracy Arm tomorrow: 30 km of snaking  granite walls, fiords and waterfalls ending with the S. Sawyer Glacier.  Took 6 days exploring Glacier Bay NP. Climate change is very noticeable.   Margerie Glacier:

9 June 2023 Exploring Glacier Bay National Park

 Friday morning we headed north to see the glaciers.  We caught glimpses of Reid and
“ Lamplugh” as we passed but we were focused on the big guys on Tarr Inlet.  About 1:30 we could see Margerie Glacier.  Grand Pacific Glacier unfortunately has withdrawn and unlike when Sondi and I were here in 2010 can no longer be seen.  We turned around plowed through bits of ice to get a good look at Margerie.  We came to a point where the “burgy bits” were packed, took our pictures and made our way carefully out of the ice.  We back tracked to the entrance of Reid Inlet and entered.  We found anchorage near the head on the west side.  After dinner Jon took the dinghy to see what he could see.  The wind came up from the west threatening to put us on the beach.  JT and I moved the boat out and anchored in 40 feet.  Jon got back at about 10:00.  JT and I were relieved and a bit stern with him but soon the dinghy was stowed and we were fast asleep.

     Saturday morning we left Reid Inlet with the destination of Carroll Glacier in the Wachusett Inlet.  We came to the end of Wachusett about six o’clock.  We were greeted with extremely shallow water where the chart said there was over a hundred feet.  At one point we were down to 6.8 feet.  Since Tango draws seven feet we were worried.  We backed off and found good holding in 45 feet.  During dinner Jon’s friends on Rhapsody arrived.  He was anxious to visit with them but do to the lateness of the hour JT and I decided that he couldn’t use our dinghy.  Rhapsody sent their dinghy over to pick him up.  To sleep…

    We left Sunday morning from the head of Wachusett Inlet after we returned their dinghy to Jon’s friends on Rhapsody.  Turns out he had to row it back from their boat after visiting til 1:30 in the morning.  As we went down the Inlet and turned into the East Arm the cloud cover came down.  As Jon started his watch at two it begin to rain.  When we came into Bartlett Cove it was raining steadily.  We walked up to the Lodge, took showers and wondered around their museum.  At 5:00 we sat down for dinner in restaurant at the Lodge.  We were soon joined by two people who share a good friend of JT’s.  Billy and Sherry stayed and ate dinner with us and recounted their experiences being local guides on the many cruise ships that visit Glacier Bay.  After dinner we walked (still raining) down to a beautiful Tlingit long house to hear a presentation by an elderly lady of the tribe.  She recounted much of the Tribal history in Glacier.  At 8:00 we were back aboard Tango, moved to the anchorage and were soon in bed.

       On Monday morning JT and I got up early and hauled the anchor.  Wind was blowing hard from the SW and we had to SE back to Hoonah to pick up a thermostat that Don Hutchins had sent.  After I rounded Point Gustavus and set course for  Hoonah, flew the Genoa and made some time.  With the wind dying JT had to take it down.  Jan put us on the visitors dock at 1:30 and hurried off to get the thermostat.  JT struck up a conversation with a fellow sailor and got a ton of useful info.  Jon came back with the thermostat and a 12 pack of Rainier.  At three we were underway and headed for Funter Bay on the Mansfield Peninsula.  JT took us in.  An elderly man was in his dinghy headed for a dock.  He advised us that it was public so we tied up to it.  We invited him to dinner but he declined, saying he had already eaten.  Since he was alone he came as our guest as we ate our meal.  He and JT had both been on Ski Patrol and they talked about.their experiences for an hour.  He made his way home in his dinghy and we went to our beds.

      Tuesday morning I was awakened early by the sound of a pump running endlessly.  I got up at 4:15 and got Jan up at quarter of five.  We soon were under way headed north.  Oh yea, I had switched tanks and the pump quit going.  We rounded Point Retreat of the Mansfield Peninsula and headed south.  Shortly afterward JT emerged and pointed out that we were to go to Auke Bay and not way south and back to get to Juneau proper.  With Jan driving we were tied up at 8:45.  Showers and laundry came next for JT and me.  Jan went down for nap.  At about one, he was up on ready to work in the engine room.  With the floor up he changed two filters and extracted about two gallons of really dirty fuel.  Now he is off to the showers and JT is working on dinner.

 

9 June 2023 Hoonah→Glacier Bay National Park

After we spent a pleasant Tuesday in Hoonah, we departed Wednesday morning to see Glacier Bay NP.  The weather was good as we made our way NW.  About half way there our engine died.  Yon switched to another filter and we continued on.  We got to the Range Station at Bartlett Cove at 3:00pm.  When we landed we noticed that the engine room was flooded.  We had blown a hot water hose off its seat on the heater.  We shut down the hot water and filled the tank from the dock.  We replaced the hose and tightened the clamp extra tight but noticed some swelling on the hose.  Following our orientation by the Park Service, we made our way north and anchored in Fingers Bay.
      Next morning we had quite a list of to-does.  We repaired a sticky kitchen cabinet door, launched the dinghy (which had been on deck) and got the water maker to run.  Yon replaced the water hose and fixed the blocked fuel line.  At 2:00pm we were ready to go.  We hauled the anchor and headed north.  About 6:30 we set the anchor in Blue Mouse Cove.  JT made us a fine dinner of chicken and vegetables with mashed potatoes.  Afterwards we watched a movie about the Race to Alaska, which had just started in Port Townsend.  The race is run in boats without engines powered just with sails and oars.  JT had been a participant in 2018.  Bed time.
      This morning it is raining.  We are waiting til noon for the tide to change then off to see some glaciers.

 

6 June 2023 Yakutat→Icy Strait

 Sunday Tango’s crew made ready to cast off from Yakutat.  We received 100 gallons of diesel fuel and departed about 2:30pm at high tide.  It took an hour to get to the ocean and start SE.  The wind was with us and we expected it to continue for the trip.  It’s about 150 miles to the entrance to Icy Strait.  We elected to stand 3 hour watches: Skip, then JT, then Jon (pronounced Yon).  Skip to 6, JT to 9, Jon to midnight, then Skip again.
     It went well though 4 watches but during JT’s 2nd watch about 4 o’clock he complained that the autopilot quit working.  He had to hand steer for most of 2 hours with 30 knots of wind.  At 6 o’clock we discovered that somehow the switch for the autopilot had disengaged.  We flicked it back on and Jon stood his watch normally.
     Skip took over at 9 just 7 miles from the entrance to Icy Strait.  By now the beautiful clear skies at the beginning had turned to complete overcast and light rain.  At about 11 o’clock JT stuck his head out and suggested going all the way back to Hoonah.  He took over at noon and made for it.  Jon got the helm at 3 and got to the pier by 4:30.  The harbormaster was in his office and told us we could stay two nights.
     We secured the boat and marched down to the Icy Strait Lodge for a good dinner.  We were back aboard and in the sack by 9:00.
     This morning we slept in.  About noon Skip and JT got to the showers and laundry ashore.  Jon followed.  About 3, Jon and Skip decided to check out a rumor of large rope slide over where the 3 cruise ships were moored.  We found the reportedly longest downhill slide around.  We rode two gondolas to get to the starting place and joined the Q.  At 4:30 we pushed off for a thrilling 1:30 minute ride down the mountain.  What a rush! 
       We caught the bus back to town and joined JT who fixing salmon dinner.  Just before we left Yakutat a fisherman on the boat next to us presented us with a small king salmon.  JT divided it into 9 meals, tonight was number one.  Delicious!  Tomorrow we are off to Glacier Bay NP.

 

3 June 2023 Yakutat

After 4 days laboring on the fuel system of the Tango, the crew succeeding getting the engine and generator to start and run. The storm we endured last Friday stirred up a lot of debris in our tanks and plugged the lines to the engine.  Today we spent the day delivering back all the materials we were to use to clean the contents of our fuel tanks.  Think two 55 gallon drums, two pumps, and assorted equipment.  We were to use this stuff to clean our messy fuel tanks but had to give up because nobody here could locate any filters.  After a quick bite to eat at the local high school (a fund raiser) we went back to Cannon Beach so that Jon could collect some of the purple sand we found there.  Then we turned in our rent-a-car and the agent drove us back to the boat.  James has returned to Houston. We will miss the good in him.  Jon and I spent an hour or so trying to get the new bow thruster controller that my friend Don Hutchins sent us.  We can get the relay to click but can’t get the thruster to work.  Tomorrow we get fuel at 1:00pm and then start back for Hoonah and inland waters.  Wish us luck.  Skip


30 May 2023 Yakutat

Rain. Repairs to be made. Crew awaiting decision on plan forward. Go ahead or return?  Options are being discussed. Three crew decided they wanted to abandon the Northwest Passage but JDG wanted to continue.  He decided to leave the boat and fly home. The others hired a mechanic to fix the boat and plan to take a scenic tour through the Inside Passage on the way back to Anacortes. The dream to sail the Northwest Passage will have to wait for another opportunity.

 

28-30 May 2023 Yakutat

The Tango ran into high winds, gusting above 55mph with nearly 7 foot seas, testing both crew and craft.  As luck would have it (this is a boat after all) the Tango's engine chose the occasion to lock up with a broken impeller, forcing the crew to raise sail and tack into the wind. Eventually the limited forward progress and stubborn engine issues convinced the crew to err on the side of safety and backtrack to Yakutat Bay to recover their strength and make repairs.  They were assisted by fishing vessel MV Sherrie Marie, captained by "a friend of a brother-in-law of a sister of an old friend" of Skip & Sondra Peters.  Talk about old school networking in the age of the internet!  

 

26 May 2023 Gulf of Alaska enroute Kodiak

Jan was on watch when the engine overheated. JDG noticed the engine was not discharging water.  Time to replace an impeller after it cools down. Jan unfurled 50% genoa and set the autopilot to track “Wind” on a beam reach in 20 kts and 2m seas. A large brown albatross with white speckles flew by under mostly cloudy to overcast skies in spitting rain. It was raining and foggy all night. Hours earlier, not long after JT relieved JDG on watch at 11:00, the wind piped up to 30 kts and JT asked JDG for help reefing the main.

 

25 May 2023 Hoonah, AK - Kodiak Island, AK

Slept late in light rain. Watched 6 kayaks with guides and a rescue boat paddle by. Skip contacted the harbormaster who told us to move because another boat due to arrive in 15 minutes reserved the dock space on which Tango was tied. Scrambled to move just as the other boat nosed in. Jan made breakfast porridge. JDG took out the garbage and vacuumed the interior. JDG changed the engine oil filter (2395 eng hrs). Jan did laundry. Skip, JT & JDG drained & unloaded the dinghy, removed it from its davits, then lifted it onto the foredeck with the spinnaker halyard for lashing. The staysail stay was deployed over the dinghy and the self-tacking block runs fair near the dinghy stern. The dinghy’s gasoline tank was tied to the dinghy’s stern so that the staysail could be run fair. The only problem with this arrangement is that the dinghy blocks vision from the pilot house and covers the v-berth escape hatch. Chances were the boat would founder bow first anyway because most of the buoyancy was in the stern, making the v-berth escape hatch less likely to be required. JDG was assigned to the v-berth and mulled over his escape routes. JT reconfigured the mizzen main sheet to facilitate man-overboard recovery and tested the system with the buoy and Life Sling. It sprinkled rain the whole time. Skip went to find the harbormaster and pay the bill while JT and Jan showered. Tango was made ready to depart Hoonah 23:30 UTC 25 May 2023 to take advantage of favorable offshore winds in the Gulf of Alaska during the next few days in hopes of reaching Kodiak quickly. Departure went smoothly. There were 3 cruise ships and several tour boats to dodge but leaving Hoonah was generally uneventful. We deployed jack lines. About 02:30 UTC 26 May 2023 the wind was on the beam at 20 kts so we hoisted the main, genoa, and mizzen. The wind backed so we eased sails and put out the preventer and running back stay. Almost immediately, the wind died. Boo. We centered the main, furled the genoa and motor-sailed at 7 kts instead through the South Inian Pass of the Icy Strait. JDG relieved Jan at 23:00. Together they worked at night in light rain to fix the mizzen sail (that someone doused but did not flake) by raising the sail at night, in unfavorable wind, tightening the lazy jacks, dousing it again in an orderly manner, and tying it up. JDG went forward to move the preventer snatch block forward a foot after he removed the running back stay that was chafing the main sail because it was no longer windward. Jan went below and JDG motor sailed the main as the wind clocked from south to west in light scattered rain. 

 

24 May 2023 Warm Spring Bay - Hoonah, AK

Skip and JT departed the dock at 06:00 local under overcast skies, 46F, and with a 12 kt tail wind but opted not to fly the drifter. JDG was aware that geothermal springs have since the dawn of Man been considered medicinal, even supernatural, and he felt great after having bathed twice within a few hours in the warm slightly sulfurous waters of Baranof Island, in water heated deep within the bowels of the Earth, dissolving a metallic brew of ores that fed ancient subterranean bacteria from which Evolutionists assert the descent of Man. It must have had a lingering effect. The barometer fell gradually and the ceiling lifted a little as a gray sun rose on Tango. JDG and Jan raised the main, deployed a preventer and running back stay, and then unfurled the genoa for a brisk downwind sail on broad reach at about 4-6 kts in 15 -20 kts of wind for a few hours. A pod of about 6 dolphins investigated Tango. They were black with white bellies and looked like baby orcas - except baby orcas are ten times bigger. The Raymarine autopilot was set for the first time to maintain a constant angle to the wind and it worked well except JT noted a pinging sound like the rack or pinion in the steering hydraulics had some play. The sails were balanced pretty well but there was weather helm so the autopilot had to work a bit more than when steaming to keep Tango aligned. JDG considered flying the mizzen but decided to wait; had he, then that could have balanced Tango better and reduced the stress on the autopilot. The pinging sound may have been there all along but became noticeable only when the drone of the engine was absent. In any case, we have a new mystery - Tango is like a woman. The wind eventually dropped to 10 kts and Tango made only 3-4 kts so the sails were doused, engine started, and Tango steamed at 7 kts toward Hoonah. It remained gray with occasional spitting rain and calm seas - perfect weather for a nap. The trouble with what time it was aboard Tango was previously discussed. A ship’s clock is on the list of things to acquire in Hoonah, but JDG noted that the Icom M604 VHF radio has the date and time on its display. It just turned 25 May in Greenwich, England - 00:00 UTC. A new day far away. Back in the sundial days, it was high noon that was most accurate, not midnight. The time of “midnight” was simply half a day from noon, but it was noon that was the standard. Of course, noon in Greenwich also determined midnight on the other side of the Earth half a rotation away. That meridian became the International Date Line where each new day officially began, but it was really noon at Greenwich that set the clocks. It still does. But the length of time differs from marking each new day. For you celestial navigation geeks, International Standard (SI) Time equals the unperturbed ground-state hyperfine transition frequency of the caesium-133 atom, to be 9 192 631 770 (9.192 GHz) when expressed in the unit Hertz (Hz), which is equal to "per second". This is the frequency of a microwave emitted when a caesium-133 atom returns to its ground state after being excited by a photon. The definition was agreed to very closely approximate solar and sidereal time. Sidereal time is referenced to the "fixed" stars. One sidereal day = 1 x 360 degree rotation of Earth about its polar axis = 23 hours 56 minutes 4.09 seconds = 23.9344696 hours (the difference with 24 hours solar time accounts for the distance Earth moved in its orbit of the Sun as it rotated about its axis). Tango entered Icy Strait and rounded Point Sophia a few miles and half an hour out of Hoonah about 03:00 UTC 25 May (19:00 24 May local). No answer to VHF calls to harbormaster. Safely docked in Hoonah, Skip went searching for a restaurant/grille/bar, not necessarily in that order, and used the handheld VHF to report back to the crew. No love, but a store was open to buy Rainier beer. On the way back Jan and JDG met Mark and Tom from s/y Laurel sitting next to a large totem pole being carved by a local craftsman. They came over to Tango for a beer and shared their knowledge of weather patterns in the Gulf of Alaska and logistics for getting parts to the North Slope of Alaska. An eagle perched on the mast of a yacht nearby. The sun set and all the ways over the fathomless sea grew dark.

 

23 May 2023 Table Bay - Warm Spring Bay

Skip and JT awoke early and weighed anchor to depart Table Bay in clear skies, light wind and 1m swells into the Chatham Strait. The aft water tank was empty so the Spectra watermaker was enabled for 8 hrs (about 40 to 50 gal). Chatham Strait in the Alexander Archipelago turned choppy when the morning wind picked up to 20 kts on our nose. Spray covered the deck as Tango plowed through the 1m to 1.5m waves at 4-5 kts, her Ford-Lehmann Super 135 purring right along. No unusual vibration was noted. A side note for those with curious minds: on a small boat at sea it is difficult for even a sharpshooter to hit the toilet so everyone is usually a sitter, but in cold weather with layer upon layer of clothing, and the cold toilet seat being such a shock, it is tempting to brace one’s hip and feet against the walls of the head, hold onto a handrail, cabinet frame, or towel rack with one hand, and relieve oneself into the sink. In good weather, one may take the opportunity to do so off the downwind side of the deck. Tango made 6.5 kts in 1ft seas and 11 kt headwind. Friend of Tango, Robert Youens, suggested via the Garmin Messenger that Warm Spring Bay (57d05’N, 134d49’W) as a good place to bathe. Tango made way to inspect it and docked next to a large motor yacht from Anacortes. A stunningly beautiful raging river fell there to the sea. The crew hiked separately a mile upstream to Baranof Lake and geothermal springs. The trail was shaded by tall fir trees. The damp ground was covered in ferns and mosses. Unfamiliar plants unfolded to bloom yellow flowers with long green pistils. Green shrubs with small reddish fuchsia or light magenta flowers occupied the underbrush like azaleas did much farther south. After viewing the clear water of the lake, JDG backtracked, exploring several footpaths along the mountainside, most leading to bogs. Back on the main trail, he encountered Jan heading toward the lake, who told him where the trail to the hot springs was located. Jan continued to the lake and explored many of the trails along the mountainside. JDG bathed in the warm pools among moss covered boulders within inches of roaring white deadly rapids cascading to the sea. After a long soak while peering at the river and contemplating life, it was time to leave. The heat exacerbated JDG’s loss of land-legs. He struggled to keep his balance and climb out of the pools. A wrong step, a wet slip, a tumble into the fast flowing river was certain instantaneous violent death beaten against the rocks. At the trailhead, a local and his Golden Retriever were beginning the hike up. Briefly chatting, the man reported seeing a brown bear along the trail the night before. JDG asked him to keep an eye out for Jan. JDG and JT met up on the boardwalk. JT had been exploring the real estate and talking to the locals. It was a very remote small community of vacation cabins accessible by normal humans only by sea or air. Apparently, they own their land fee-simple and had to ship or helicopter timber to build their cabins. Above the Sitka-managed floating docks were three or four small cabins that had gone downhill. Literally. They were in disarray and gradually sliding down the slope on top of one another in a jumbled mess. Back at Tango, dinner was a soup medley of leftovers with freshly baked bread. Jan arrived late and cleaned out the pot. Afterward, we discussed Crew Overboard and Severe Weather, 2 of 9 scenarios in the emergency response plan; the remainder to follow in the coming days. As the sun set, the crew went to the public geothermal baths to relax. There were three deep plastic tubs (big enough for a couple) filled with geothermal water in a three-room hut on wooden stilts built out over the steep shoreline with curtains that opened to a view of the waterfall. There were wisps of white algae in the very warm water but one emerged feeling clean. Protocol was to drain the tub, scrub it with a brush, and refill it before leaving the door open. As JDG sat outside Tango enjoying his pipe, a 35 year veteran of the Alaska Whale Foundation sauntered by and struck up a conversation. A thin man with gray dreadlocks under his cap and carrying a backpack, he was a PhD marine biologist from Washington specializing in cetaceans. 

 

22 May 2023 West Island - Table Bay

Skip and JT decided to get an early start, weighed anchor, and headed north and then west around Prince of Wales Island under sunny brisk skies. We saw more humpback whales, seals, otters, gulls, cormorants, and ducks. Tango had to backtrack a bit to get on the westside of Kuiu Island. She dodged several logs. A quartering headwind tempted Skip and JT to deploy a reefed jib but it was too close to the wind and flogged. Swells reached 1.5m with white caps. It was a bumpy ride. Skip saw six eagles together. Tango anchored in Table Bay, sheltered with 25 ft and good holding at 02:15 UTC. “Otto” the otter checked us out. A pair of eagles, too. JT prepared cheese & sausage snacks, salads and bean soup for dinner. Skip wet a hook but didn’t get bit. JDG successfully chased down a random alarm. It was a pleasant change from anchoring after dark. In fact, some of the crew turned in before dark!

 

21 May 2023 Ketchikan - West Island

The original plan was to leave Prince Rupert on 20 May. Tango was still ahead of schedule despite staying in Ketchikan longer than expected for repairs. JT cooked Sunday morning pancakes for breakfast; interestingly, Jan put Nutella on his. The Ace hardware store opened at 09:00. JDG got short bolts and screws for the bow thruster joystick and a Dremel tool kit. A Dremel would have saved at least an hour futsing with the damn thing yesterday. But Fate stepped in on the 8th connection. The hole had to be enlarged to fit the screw. The bit grabbed and tore out the metal tab ruining the switch. Tango’s friend, Don Hutchins, chased a new joystick for the bow thruster for delivery to Hoonah, AK. Maša of Harmony wished Tango fair winds. Pre-departure checklist complete, Tango steamed out of Bar Harbor enroute Hoonah in overcast, chilly skies and north wind. We saw a humpback wave its fluke about an hour out. The skies lowered and spitted rain. Visibility dropped under 5 miles. JT relieved JDG on watch so a rousing batch of “James’ Surprise” was rustled up. The chef’s philosophy was, “There are few things in life that olive oil, onions, and garlic won’t fix, including cabbage.” JDG was eating a bowl and didn’t die, but Skip skipped it. JDG’s idea was to cook as many apples, bananas, potatoes, cabbages, onions and carrots as practicable since they are the basic foods most at risk of rot. The original watch schedule was on UTC but while day sailing it became difficult to switch back and forth between UTC and local closing time at the bar, and then we changed time zones. The plan was to reset the Tango Watch Schedule in Hoonah and deploy a “ship’s clock” as the watchkeeping basis from there to Boston. The 2-hrs “On Watch,” 5-hrs “On Standby,” and 1-hr “Watchkeeper Support” worked ok day sailing, but in Hoonah the crew voted for 3-hrs “on” twice a day to get longer periods of sleep. Furthermore, it seems that JDG's use of UTC confused everyone and the dates in the logbook got out of whack. JDG conducted an unannounced fire drill training exercise in which each crew were asked their roles & responsibilities if a fire alarm occurred. We reviewed where the fire extinguishers and fire blanket were located, actions by the helmsman, and actions by crew if forward or aft. It was helpful but we need to put more realism in it next time. The crew ate dinner as JDG was on helm along the Kashevarof Passage. As Tango approached West Island there were rafts of several dozen ducks (maybe white-winged scoters), a few cormorants in flight, and four otters noted. Tango anchored in a mostly sheltered cove on the west coast of West Island (56d10’.397N, 133d0’.312W) in 26ft with hard rock bottom and sketchy holding. We set the anchor watch at 60ft to test it. JDG ate leftover stir-fried vegetables. NOTE: Tango entered Ketchikan 17 May and departed 21 May.

 

20 May 2023 Ketchikan

After a good rest, the crew prepared Tango to depart for Hoona, AK in 24 hrs. Canned goods were relocated to allow frequent access to the watermaker. Skip flushed it with fresh water to prepare it to make more water underway. The tanks are full now and the limit switch does not allow the watermaker to add to the tanks. Jan and Skip designed and cut a shelf with a large fiddle to add storage options in the galley hanging locker. JDG borrowed a worm-drive saw from Ben on m/v Alani, moored next to s/y Harmony, to cut the plywood shelf. JDG confirmed the forward batteries were charging to 26.4 VDC and the windlass worked but the bow thruster is still dysfunctional. Pulsed Tango’s previous owner, Ron Bauman, for an opinion. Jan reinstalled the shade over the aft hatch and then helped Harmony repair her lazy jacks while Tango refueled. She took 138.8 gal diesel. The fuel totalizer in the cockpit reported 229.3 gal consumed; 60% high. Our average fuel consumption was 1.3 gph; much less than the 2+ gph estimated based on 2000 rpm and the Ford’s engine performance curves. Back at the dock, Jan ascended the mast to repair the deck light that took a hit from a flogging jib sheet a few days ago. It works. Skip and JT checked the steering hydraulic fluid reservoir under the compass. All good. JDG took a nap while JT did his exercises. Ron Bauman called and suggested we look for corrosion on the bow thruster joystick. Bingo! JDG disassembled, cleaned, and applied dielectric grease to 6 of the 8 electrical connections before JT moosed the 7th. The 8th one required drilling out. It took an hour. A preliminary test confirmed the bow thruster was operational. Now we have to go to the hardware store on Sunday morning to get some small bolts and nuts to reattach them. We may have to solder them. Meanwhile, a local fisherman scheduled the marina facilities called “the grid” to temporarily ground his boat to do maintenance below the waterline without a crane or diver. The idea was to tie the boat to the land at high tide and as the tide went out, the boat keel is supposed to settle onto the grid. But the tide was late, he went to sleep, and when the tide went out, it was extra low. The boat broke all its dock lines and was holed. It took 2 days of pumping and a crew to patch the hole before he could float off and go spend big bucks to make permanent repairs at a commercial shipyard nearby. Jan cooked pasta for dinner while JT walked for exercise. JDG roamed the docks before calling it a night. Everyone was very tired after a full day.

Ketchikan. Note the tidal depth marks up to 55 ft.

 

19 May 2023 Ketchikan

JT, Jan and Skip attacked the aft head. After much troubleshooting it was found that the vacuum pump was air locked. They resolved the issues and got the head working again! The lesson was to close the lid of the toilet before flushing and to use plenty of water. Also, the air compressor was not needed, so JDG packed it up and resolved to sell it locally. While the others worked inside, JDG went on a mission to find a double cheek block to replace the broken one on the mainsheet traveler. He found one at Tongass Trading Co. ($125) and bought an annual Alaska fishing license ($200 including king salmon), too. He met Robin, the secretary at the Harbormaster’s office, and collected info about Ketchikan. He dropped off his laundry with Zell from Las Vegas whose sister, Niecy, was the manager of Highliner Laundromat (he labeled the sack of dirty rags & towels “Wear Gloves”). We departed on a long walk for a celebratory meal at The Landing consisting of slider & beef sandwich w/ French fries, a Spanish omelet & green salad, 2 chicken fried steaks & eggs served by Mariah, a competitive Lumber Jill who threw axes and balanced on logs in the water. She was getting a divorce and wanted to open a food truck named The Pink Taco (don’t laugh). Returning to Tango, we deployed the shore power cable and tried to get the bow thruster batteries charged. JDG reassembled the v-berth and moved out of the pilothouse. Jan helped fold the sail covers more compactly. JDG treated everyone with Alaskan White beer from Safeway while listening to sailing songs on Spotify. JT went to Highliner to do his own laundry. Skip took a nap and then a walk. Jan went to Safeway to get some food and more beer for tomorrow. He borrowed someone else’s “Safeway card” number and saved $20. Jan and JDG put away the British Columbia nautical chart and found the Gulf of Alaska chart to reference for the next few weeks. The wind picked up, clouds moved in, and the temperature dropped but Tango’s crew were comfortable at the dock and called it an early night.

 

18 May 2023 Ketchikan

JDG checked in at 07:30. Tango first approached the pump out station at Thomas Basin from the outside but it was shallow and so tight that it took a great deal of delicate maneuvering by Skip to extract ourselves. We went to the pump out station at Bar Harbor North but it was under repair and a temporary one was located in a spot that was inaccessible, so we returned to Thomas Basin and approached the pump out station from the inside with good results. Jan and JDG tore the forward head apart and blew and sucked on hoses until the blockage was removed.  The pump out station hose fitting was not designed for our purpose so we used a 3 ft section of spare hose and mastic to putty a snorkel to insert into the forward holding tank. It took four tank rinses to clean out sufficiently. Skip and JT supported Jan and JDG until it was time to reassemble the head, then Skip and JT went to a nearby machine shop to inquire about possible causes of the tapping at 1285 rpm. No love there. The forward head equipment tested and no leaks noted, we buttoned it up and went on deck to get fresh air! When Skip and JT returned, Tango left for Bar Harbor South and her assigned slip. For such dirty work, the v-berth remained relatively clean. We used Clorox wipes to disinfect the surfaces after putting it all back together. The tools were wiped down and the gloves washed in warm soapy water. The laundry bag was probably hazardous! Skip and JT checked in the marina. JT cooked a tasty dinner of beef tips on rice w/ vegetables, onions & mushrooms, and toast. Everyone slept well.

 

17 May 2023 Prince Rupert - Ketchikan

Fog rolled in and Tango’s departure at 07:00 PDT from Prince Rupert was slow on radar. JDG’s Second Rule of Good Seamanship is, “Slow down in the fog,” the First Rule being, “Keep the pointy end up.” The aft head declined to flush. JT bailed it. The aft holding tank was emptied. It looks like the vacation in Ketchikan will be more like a plumbing project instead. In the meantime, a 5 gal bucket serves as a substitute. It was still foggy at 09:00 as Tango approached Chatham Sound. The fog burned off at 09:30. It became bright and clear blue. Tango increased her speed to 6 kts against a light north wind. There was very little traffic; a couple of fishing boats and a U.S. Coast Guard cutter passed us going south. Tango entered US waters at 14:15 local time. On 11 May, it was noted “There was an intermittent vibration from the rear bilge that JT and JDG investigated. They suspected it was from the prop shaft…” It was noted then that 1) the shaft from the transmission was steady, 2) the anode on the same shaft was in good repair, 3) the electrical ground on the prop shaft was not the source of vibration, 4) the bellows vibrated but was not leaking, and 5) the “tapping” sound came from outboard of the bellows rather than within it, so U-joint bushings (if any) are less suspect. The noise returned this afternoon at 1285 rpm. It has a 1 minute volume cycle from min to max with consistent 4 beats or light “taps” per second. It is not violent. Increasing rpm to 1305 smooths it out but it’s still there. Decreasing rpm to 1265 reduces it, too. Apparently, there is a natural frequency that does not like 1285 rpm. JDG speculated: 1) the cutlass bearing is slightly worn and the prop shaft alignment (once lasered in place) can now wobble slightly off center, &/or 2) the folding prop rattles at 1285 rpm for some unknown reason, &/or 3) there is something caught in the line-cutter behind the prop (used to get free of lobster/crab pots). The obvious near term solution was to avoid 1285 rpm. We put it back on the punch list for Ketchikan. In the Revillagigedo Channel near Twin Islands (55d07’.727N, 131d12’.534W), about a mile away, were spotted a pod of about 4 humpback whales. One gave us a fluke wave. A large cruise ship M/V Nieuw Amsterdam passed Tango southbound at 02:45 UTC with M/V Ovation of the Seas 2 nm behind it. Approaching Thomas Basin, Skip called Customs but it was already closed. JT was familiar with the harbor so we entered after dark and docked at Customs; we didn’t break JDG’s Third Rule of Good Seamanship, “Never enter an unfamiliar harbor after dark.” The 24 vdc bow thruster quit while docking despite the battery charger switch being on for hours with the engine running. JDG brought her in slowly and Tango was soon secured along the Customs dock in Thomas Basin. Bending the law for humane reasons, the crew decided to find a restroom despite not having yet checked back into the US. About 10 PM local, the only available one nearby happened to be located in a bar named The Potlatch, an establishment recommended by JT based on his previous travels to Ketchikan. The bartender, Ryan, was about to close up but with 4 new clients he agreed to remain open for a bit. JDG set up the bar and introduced himself to Cody, a Potlatch regular and lumberman. Cody recommended a machine shop and a few sources for electrical and plumbing resources. He had just purchased a portable lumber mill from New Zealand and proudly showed videos of it in action. When he learned that JDG made chess sets as a hobby, he offered to ship a few pieces of local wood species to consider. Another patron, Rose, was helpful in recommending a couple of local eating establishments. She was also Native American, born and raised in Alaska, so JDG sent her “Chokma” greetings from the Chickasaws in Oklahoma. Jan and Brian discussed sea sickness remedies. JT and Skip watched Seattle get beat at basketball on tv. Thirsts quenched, the crew returned to Tango light, limber, and lively.

16 May 2023 Kxngeal Inlet - Prince Rupert

No joy. At dawn, the tank remained pressurized. JT shared a river rafting “exploding dookie tank” story over breakfast coffee, much to the crew’s amusement. The plan was to empty the lower part of the v-berth, pack towels around the holding tank’s 4” OD instrument/access hatch, and loosen a hose clamp around it - apparently clamped there to prevent escaping gasses from stinking up the boat. No joy. The tank remained pressurized. JDG drilled a small hole in the plastic access hatch. There was an initial burst of gas before a few ounces of greenish brown water geysered up about an inch, wetting the packed towels and rags in about a minute then stopped! Disaster avoided. Engine oil OK, Tango weighed anchor and steamed toward Prince Rupert where it was hoped that the traveler and head could be repaired more ably. Another motor-sailing ketch, s/y Gypsy Wind, from Alaska arrived in Prince Rupert just ahead of Tango and traded greetings on the VHF. We were calling marinas in Prince Rupert by 15:00 PDT. 

 

15 May 2023 Green Inlet Marine Park - Kxngeal Inlet

The tide dropped about 6 ft overnight in Green Inlet Marine Park but Tango held anchor and didn’t move.  Skip awoke about 05:00 and started the watermaker. He had to gradually adjust the pressure relief valve. It made good water to the forward water tank at about 4 gal/hr without tripping on high pressure longer than anytime since the sail around Vancouver. JT bumped the watermaker timer to 4 hours! Skip put the canned goods all back together. JT & JDG attempted to deploy the drifter rigging and almost got it right. Tango weighed anchor and departed Green Inlet Marine Park at 08:15 PDT. A stiff northerly breeze blew through the valleys and along the channel. Tango steamed at 6 kts with a 0.5 kt tide but against the wind. Skip & JT briefly spotted a whale, possibly a small humpback, that surfaced near the Tango and quickly disappeared. Only JDG has yet to see a whale on this voyage. The Spectra made water and the tanks were soon full. JT used the wifi to source a spare part for the washer on the internet but wifi calling proved problematic. The Star Link is proving useful though. Waterfalls and bald eagles were spectacular. The northern flanks of the mountains still held much snow. The wind soon died and Jan took the helm to enjoy a pleasant, vomit-free, sunny morning steaming north in a very calm Princess Royal Channel. We took a group photo near a waterfall and continued until turning west in the McKay Reach leading into the Wright Channel and NW again into the narrow Greenville Channel. Skip and JT wet the hook but got no bites. JDG recognized an alarm and troubleshot the forward toilet with no love. Jan cooked fried potatoes with onions and mushrooms to compliment fried eggs and a side of bacon for dinner. After anchoring in a beautiful cove protected from the north wind with good holding, the crew began troubleshooting the forward head but pressurized the polyethylene holding tank and plugged the vent line. We made a ticking dookie bomb. They retreated until morning and went to bed hoping the cold night would reduce the pressure, or it might gradually leak out of the vent. JDG moved into the pilothouse to sleep.

 

14 May 2023 Queen Charlotte Sound - Green Inlet Marine Park at Horsefly Cove

The wind clocked and Tango sailed NE. About midnight, Skip furled the genoa and started the engine to get back on a NNW course. Jan relieved him and continued to suffer seasickness but declined to take medicine. When JDG relieved him at 04:00 PDT, we briefly saw a jeweled string of about 2 dozen Star Link satellites quickly streaming across the sky! JDG backed off the throttle and steamed about 5.5 kts NNW into Queen Charlotte Sound. A sliver of orange moon rose in the east as the sun began to silhouette the distant mountains. When JT relieved JDG after sunrise, Tango was approaching the entrance to Hecate Strait. JT and Skip fully unfurled the genoa before Jan came on deck. He quickly suffered seasickness and asked JDG to help at the helm. To relieve the strain on the crew, Tango changed course to make for the inside via Laredo Sound behind Aristazabal Island. Soloing an S-shaped course under a reefed main and full genoa, JDG left Nab Rock to windward. It was easy to spot. The surf geysered white spume there sky high. Hardening sails northward, Tango surged to 7 kts with the rail nearly in the water, but not for long. JT came out to help reef the genoa and Tango soon settled into the wind shadow of Aristazabal. Genoa furled, the engine on, JT and JDG plotted a route between islands, avoiding many submerged rocks. JT took the helm so JDG could sleep. The V-berth where JDG bunked was in shambles due to heeling. Everything stowed there had rolled to the low side, so JDG re-sorted things before getting a nap. Skip awoke and decided he wanted to go sightseeing through the very narrow and shallow cut north of Swindle Island into the Princess Royal Channel. He and JT re-plotted a snaking route with beautiful scenery on all sides. White cascades of snow-melt tumbled down the mountain slopes into the channel. The price of this awesomeness was an unintentional gybe that broke the starboard mainsheet traveler block and burned more diesel; but the extra benefit was unpacking a ton of canned goods off of the watermaker to troubleshoot it at anchor. We had a Chinese fire drill to move canned goods into the pilothouse. The Spectra reverse osmosis watermaker had made no significant water in several years but was recently serviced and had a new membrane. It made a few ounces of water since service. The crew were using the second of two 110 gal water tanks filled in Anacortes. JDG shared his mantra with the crew, “The future looks brighter when the water tanks are full.” JT expressed concern that the McDishy Flat Face Star Link antenna may not last 5 months if left on continuously. The crew decided to turn it on each day at agreed times to conserve its life. This will limit incoming wifi calls but should allow everyone to speak to loved ones regularly. The fishing rod is poled outboard with new line but has yet to have a hook attached. Tango continued steaming through calm waters through the afternoon. JDG had already grazed on a peanut butter sandwich and was full when JT cooked pork chops for dinner. Jan was able to ingest a little, including the last slice of a large creme brulee gifted by Jim & Stephanie Renfro, valued friends of Tango. Generally, while aboard, the crew ate well - eggs, cheese, toast, cereal, chicken salad, pork chops, etc. (It was the chicken salad sandwich that first sent Jan to the rail.) JDG ate a balanced plant-based diet of chocolate flavored Ka’Chava protein drink, apples, bananas, mixed nuts, peanut butter, bread, granola, Raman noodles, Pringles(LOL), a daily multivitamin, lots of tea and coffee, and a bowl or two of Admiral’s Choice Dark Cherry Cavendish on watch. Tango found an anchorage in the Green Inlet Marine Park (52 55.245N, 128 29.036W) about 21:30 and settled for the night. JT took anchor watch. The crew decided to wait until morning to test the drifter’s rigging in the calm wind of shelter before putting it to work under sail. JDG & Jan played a competitive game of chess.

 

13 May 2023 Telegraph Cove Marina, Vancouver Island - Queen Charlotte Sound

As usual, Skip was 1st up and plotted a new course for the day. There was some discussion about where best to spend our extra time built into the schedule. Although Telegraph Marina was beautiful in the morning sun, the crew decided to bank the time and spend it in another, as yet undecided, location. It was short work to complete the pre-departure checklist, warm up the engine, and haul dock lines at 08:00 PDT. The Raymarine navigation system provides an autopilot that controls Tango’s hydraulic steering. Being a computer, it can be programmed to follow customized waypoints making up a route. JDG was the lonely voice in the desert saying, “Sailors hold the tiller or wheel. Autopilots run boats aground.” Dismissed as an ancient curmudgeon, the autopilot was used under power to follow Skip’s route from waypoint to waypoint, but JDG vowed to teach the crew sailing when the wind picked up and the engine was  turned off. After much discussion and evaluation of 4 alternative routes, the crew decided to head north to sail offshore rather than motor-sail on the inside. The weather was clear, the snow capped mountains in the distance slowly diminished into the horizon. When JT relieved JDG on watch, they decided to attempt to deploy the drifter for the first time. JT was instrumental in getting the drifter’s sheets run fair while JDG worked the foredeck. Skip heard the commotion and came out to help. Jan slept. It took an hour and several re-rovings but the sail was finally hoisted just in time for the wind to back head-on and make the drifter mute (for the time being). Tango steamed NW into Queen Charlotte Strait with 15 kts on her nose. At sea, large pearly-gray Glaucous Gulls with yellowish bills, and slightly smaller black-and-white Western Gulls were seen. Light gray Herring Gulls were common, maybe with a Thayer’s Gull mixed in. There were less common, small, silvery-gray Bonaparte’s Gulls or perhaps Mew Gulls. The wind picked up to 25 kts so Jan and JDG set a double reefed main and rag of a jib to sail but could only make 2 kt. We took a reef out and unfurled more jib and picked up to about 3 to 4 kt. Jan got sea sick when he went below but managed to sleep. The sunset was glorious. JT came out and we opened the genoa about 80% and tacked. Tango put the bit in her teeth and surged to 6.5 kts on beam-reach to NNE. She made 5.5 kt at night almost due north on port tack close-reach 60 degrees off the wind in 2 meter swells.

 

12 May 2023 Discovery Harbour Marina, Campbell Bay, Vancouver Island - Telegraph Cove Marina, Vancouver Island

The crew took warm showers at the marina. JT cooked cheesy scrambled eggs with mushrooms & toast for breakfast. Jan beat the rugs on deck and vacuumed dust inside. JDG verified the anode on the prop shaft was tight and Skip verified the shaft bellows were water-filled. The vibration was no longer evident. We speculated that flotsam in the witches’ brew may have temporarily caught on the folding prop. At 09:30 PDT, Tango departed Campbell Bay for Port McNeill in clear calm weather with a merry crew. The Raymarine ST60 Wind instrument had reset and showed data. Tango did two 360 degree turns outside the Discovery Harbour to recalibrate the anemometer and proceeded north past Campbell River and into the Discovery Passage. Tango passed Ripple Rock in Seymour Narrows at 11:00 PDT (at slack tide) and Separation Head about 11:30 (with a 0.5 kt current). Several vessels accompanied Tango into the Johnstone Strait where the tidal current increased and she raced along at 8 kts. The area experienced a record heat wave. The wind briefly picked up to 15 kts just ahead of the Current Passage but the crew didn’t raise sails. The wind died soon after. Rafted flocks of White-Winged Scoters flew off as Tango approached. Later in the day, the wind rose to 20-30 kts. Tango spread her white sails and we flew downwind at 7 kts, gybing between the banks of Johnstone Strait. Raising sails was challenging because we were on the left side of the channel in the path of an oncoming 981 ft cruise ship. Mackerel skies gradually thickened to cirrostratus and foretold a possible weather change tomorrow. By 19:00 PDT, the wind died again and we steamed into the setting sun and Telegraph Cove Marina to tie up at 21:15 PDT for the night. While JDG stayed aboard for security, the crew briefly went ashore to investigate the sleepy marina and returned for a quick bite and bed. A Great Horned Owl hoot, hoot-hooted from a tree near Tango.

 

11 May 2023 Jack Screw Island, B.C. - Discovery Harbour Marina, Campbell Bay, Vancouver Island 

Tango was secure all night. Skip got up first and, eager to sail, started the engine before JDG asked him to wait to raise anchor with assistance from the crew. JT and JDG got dressed, made coffee and tea, dismantled the Star Link (that Jan had deployed after everyone else had gone to sleep so he could contact his family and friends in Germany), and raised anchor. JT was on watch and took Tango north in calm seas and light winds. The Raymarine ST60 Wind instrument was powered but null even though the anemometer atop the mast was spinning. JT troubleshot it for an hour with no luck. It was added to tomorrow’s pre-departure punch list. Jan spotted a whale, probably a humpback, as it surfaced 30 meters from Tango but could not positively identify the species. A few bald eagles were seen flying along the inner channels’ forested shorelines. Tango arrived at Dodd Narrows during slack tide and negotiated the skinny water. Continuing into Georgia Strait under a bright sun but little wind, Tango steamed smoothly along until modifying her course to avoid active military exercises near Ballenas Islands. The wind picked up and we unfurled the genoa to increase speed to 8 kts. It kept up most of the day but weakened by evening. Near our destination, the tide turned against us and it was a fight to get upstream. White caps preceded a rough tide line that stood up to the opposing breeze, a  witches’ brew of large eddies and upwellings churned Discovery Passage near Wilby Shoals on the southern tip of Quadra Island! There was an intermittent vibration from the rear bilge that JT and JDG investigated. They suspected it was from the prop shaft but it was too dangerous to get closer with the prop engaged so they put it on tomorrow’s pre-departure punch list. Crabbing against the current, Tango crossed the Campbell River at barely 2 kts but avoided being swept downstream. Tango arrived at Discovery Harbour, Campbell Bay, at dusk about 20:30. Previously, JDG and Skip were befriended by Natalie, their waitress at Riptide Restaurant, during their sail around Vancouver Island, so a quick phone call reserved pizza before the kitchen closed at 21:00 PDT. Unfortunately, the restaurant had flooded, so Natalie met Tango with pizza on the dock. A very nice lady, she is a friend of Tango - one of many we hope to gain on the voyage. Saving the pizza for later, the crew walked to Moxie’s located next door to Riptide and had dinner before retiring.

 

10 May 2023: Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes, WA - Jack Screw Island, B.C.

JT and JDG made an early, last minute, run to Safeway for personal items. About 08:00, Skip and Sondra loaded their car and drove to the marina where JDG carted the refreshments to the boat and Sondra set up. About 50 guests began to arrive at 09:00 PDT to tour Tango and wish us bon voyage, toasting her with champagne and orange juice. John Helbig, another valued friend of Tango, gifted the crew gourmet coffee, a wee bit of whiskey, candy, ginger snaps, hand warmers and, best of all, a rubber ducky for good luck! Matt & Trish Holt, true friends of Tango, assisted with provisioning the boat. After greeting everyone and then saying goodbye, Tango left the dock and headed out to sea under clear sunny skies and calm winds. We conducted a Crew-Overboard drill successfully while we steamed north. One or two dolphins (or perhaps seals) were spotted in the distance. A 2-hour watch schedule was agreed and implemented. Skip took 08:00 - 10:00, Jan next, followed by JDG, and JT, ad infinitum. A motor yacht, apparently on autopilot with no one at the helm, overtook Tango dangerously close and required Tango to change her course to avoid a collision. Later, she dodged a few floating logs, many with a black Pelagic Cormorant perched among a half dozen light gray Herring Gulls balanced aboard. We ate leftover lasagna for lunch. Jan had thirds! Tango checked into Canada in Bedwell Harbour, South Pender Island, by telephone with Canada Border Services Agency but they requested the Royal Canadian Mounted Police clear our firearms. JDG had previously emailed the required form and the RCMP response was that they would inspect the firearms in person. After several telephone calls to Vancouver, the RCMP there accepted the email form and emailed a stamped version. Tango departed Bedwell Harbour after only 45 minutes! Stretching their first day a bit too far, they attempted to anchor three times in Princess Cove on Wallace Island (48d56.652N, 123d33.455W) among several other yachts at sunset. The anchor would not hold. They steamed about a mile north to a midpoint between Secretary and Jack Screw Islands (48d57.299N, 123d35.099W) and dropped anchor in low light on a rocky bottom with good holding. Several seals annoyed roosting gulls and a ruckus ensued. Seals slapped the water so hard it sounded like gunshots. They splashed and grunted while the gulls squawked. After anchor watch, except for Jan, we turned in.